Sod Installation and Mulch Services in Richmond Hill

Yes, we offer a one year warranty on new sod, provided it has been watered according to the schedule we give you: daily watering for the first two weeks while the roots establish. That condition matters because fresh sod has no root system into the soil beneath it and dries out very quickly. We take responsibility for the grading, topsoil, sod quality and installation, and the watering is the part only you can do.

From established Ontario sod farms including Zander Sod, Queensville Sod Farms, Fairgreen Sod Farms and Brouwer Sod Farms. Sod is perishable and starts to deteriorate as soon as it is cut, so shorter transit means fresher sod, and Ontario-grown turf is suited to the climate it will live in.

Spring and early autumn. Autumn is often the better of the two, because cooler air and warm soil mean much less watering pressure while the roots establish. Midsummer sod is possible but needs far more water and is less forgiving if you miss a day.

Daily for the first two to three weeks, and sometimes twice daily in hot weather. The soil beneath needs to stay consistently moist while roots grow down into it. Once rooted, taper to deeper and less frequent watering to encourage roots to go deeper still.

Keep off it as much as possible for the first two weeks. Light foot traffic is generally fine after that. Wait until the sod resists when you try to lift a corner before treating it as a normal lawn.

Usually after about three weeks, once it has rooted and reached cutting height. Use a sharp blade, make sure the sod is dry, and do not remove more than a third of the blade height on the first cut.

Almost always watering. New sod has no roots into the soil beneath, so it dries out very quickly, and a few missed days in hot weather is usually enough. The second most common cause is inadequate topsoil underneath, leaving roots nowhere to grow.

Sod gives an instant lawn and is far better on slopes where seed washes away, but costs more. Seed is much cheaper and offers more choice of grass variety, but takes a full season to look established. Sod is the usual choice for front lawns and new builds.

Usually yes. Laying new sod over existing turf prevents proper contact between the new roots and the soil, and the old grass decomposes underneath, creating an uneven surface.

In most cases yes, and it matters more than the sod itself. Sod laid onto compacted clay or builder’s fill has nowhere for roots to grow. Good screened topsoil at an adequate depth is what turns new sod into an established lawn.

Around two to three inches. Thinner allows weeds through. Thicker can restrict air to the roots and hold too much moisture. Always keep it pulled back from tree trunks and shrub stems rather than mounded against them.

Most beds need topping up annually to maintain depth and appearance, as mulch breaks down and settles. Cedar lasts longer than natural bark. A complete replacement is rarely necessary.

It suppresses new weeds by blocking light from reaching seeds, but it does not kill weeds already growing. Beds must be weeded thoroughly before mulching.

All the common options work and the choice is mostly appearance, longevity and cost. Cedar resists breakdown and lasts longest. Dyed black and brown mulches give a uniform look that suits front beds. Natural bark breaks down faster and improves the soil as it does.

Yes, where the site needs it, and most sites do. We assess what is underneath before quoting rather than pricing the turf alone.

Yes. Sod repair after interlocking, tree removal or excavation is common work for us, and it is best scheduled to follow the disruptive work rather than precede it. If we are doing both jobs we will sequence them for you.

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